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In a recent email from my Aunt Carol in Cody, Wyoming (USA), she asked me about the differences between celebrating the holidays in Spain v.s. the USA. I think most of you will concur that the Christmas holiday (I have chosen not to be politically correct here…so I hope my non-Christian friends will not take offense) begins the day after Thanksgiving with the traditional "Black Friday" shopping…if you are in NYC and see the Macy�s Thanksgiving Day Parade, perhaps you will say it begins when the Santa float makes its appearance. Anyway…since Thanksgiving is not a holiday celebrated here in Spain, Christmas marketing begins a little earlier…just after Halloween (Halloween wasn�t traditionally celebrated here, but over the past few years, has begun to catch on). Santa Claus or Pap� No�l as he is called here, is viewed as an Anglo Saxon tradition and does not have nearly as much popularity as the Reyes Magos (The Three Wise Men/the Three Kings)..although I must add that each year he is gaining in popularity. During the Christmas season, although losing its popularity, is the tradition of the children going from house to house singing villancicos (Christmas carols) and collecting money.

La Noche Buena (Christmas Eve) is celebrated with the family with a huge sit down meal of 3-4 courses. Tradition calls for several dishes of seafood as well as roasted cordero (lamb). The practicing Catholics will go the the Misa del Gallo (the Rooster Mass or midnight Mass). The families that choose to exchange gifts at Christmas do so on Christmas Eve. Christmas trees, while gaining in popularity here, are not the tradition, but rather, an elaborate "Bel�n" or manger display.

What I really miss here in Spain and loved seeing while back in the USA are all the brightly lit houses with the merry, twinkling lights. Here the cities and towns put up special Christmas lights and I have even seen a few decorated trees, but in general the private homes do not do too much decorating…at least nothing compared to the USA.

December 28th is the "d�a de los inocentes" much like April Fools Day in the USA…practical jokes abound. I don�t think there is any direct or indirect correlation between this date and the rest of the holiday season, but who knows….would have to do a little research on that.

The celebration of La Noche Vieja (New Year�s Eve) runs the gamut from huge public celebrations in the main town squares, to the very chic private parties in highly coveted bars, to the mega parties in the discoteques and the private family gatherings. Whatever your style the one tradition that is seen at all celebrations is that of the doce uvas (12 grapes). I recall in my college Spanish classes, Dr. Iglesias animatedly telling us about eating the 12 grapes to the rhythm of the bells tolling the hour…one grape per chime. Ahhh, no big deal we thought, how easy. But not so easy…after a huge dinner of 3-4 courses (yes the Spaniards are big on eating!)… dessert….coffee …everflowing wine and champagne. Try downing a dozen grapes (they are big here…this is wine making country)….and not the seedless variety either! Of course there is all sorts of marketing that goes along with this tradition including party favor style cans of 12 grapes each.

The children do not write letters to Santa Claus but rather to the Reyes Magos. In all of the centro comerciales (shopping centers) they line up to sit on one of the Three Kings� lap to tell him their wishes. On the 5th of January, each child leaves a pair of shoes by the window so that the Reyes Magos can leave them a surprise. Here, on the 6th of January, Epiphany in the Christian religions…the date the three wise men brought the gifts to the Christ Child, families exchange gifts --- it�s a national holiday and marks the end of the holiday season. Of course the traditional breakfast and coffee food is the rosc�n de Los Reyes that comes in many different varieties. Generally it is a large round pastry (about the size of a medium pizza) with a hole in the middle (like a doughnut) and filled with cream and topped with candied fruit. Hidden within the pastry is a small trinket that is said to bring good luck to the person who finds it.

Just as in the States, during the entire holiday season, there is the tradition of visiting friends and family and wishing them all good cheer. The homes are often stocked with "turrones" (almond nougat candies), "polverones" (another traditional candy), and bombones (chocolate bon-bons) and as soon as the guests arrive, a sweet tray is readily prepared and served with the everpresent coffee, or in some cases, a liquor/cordial.

Sometimes I get saddened by the tremendous influence that the American culture has on Spain. I relish the fact that different countries have different ways of celebrating the holiday season. Spain has not been a very consumer driven country, previously the "wealth" did not exist. The people bought what they needed and used what they bought. There was a much larger middle class and the upper and lower classes were the exceptions rather than the rule. However, much is changing here. Consumerism is rising here as is consumer debt, the middle class is beginning to shrink. The concept of keeping up with the "Garc�as" (as I call it) is beginning to become apparent in certain social circles and classism is becoming more and more the norm.

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Hey Chica, that letter ROCKS!!! That should teach your relatives stateside not to ask