Hola Amigos!
My wife and I just returned from our trip to see her sister who is currenly doing a semester abroad in Seville thru UNC Chapel Hill. I wrote on here before going and got ALOT of good advice from yall. So, I'll pass on the details.
We fly Delta, ofcourse, since I work for them and fly pretty close to free. We were lucky enough to get business elite both ways, and let me tell its awesome.
I personally wouldnt pay for the upgrade unless I had a billion miles, but dammmmm it was nice. I should note that the big D was on time like clockwork both ways.
Upon arriving in Madrid on a Thurs morning I was quite surprised to see the ease at which we passed thru customs - there was one large opening with "Nothing to Declare" and one for "Items to Declare". If you went thru the first side, you walked right out into the main airport. This was after they briefly stamped your passport. Right on, much quicker than Atlanta!
So we made no reservations for Aerocity, but I found their unmarked desk in the front of the airport a little past the Renfe station on the left. They were more than happy to accommodate us for a ride down to the Atocha station for 18 EU. I later learned a cab would have done the same price, but I was leary about getting ripped off.
Aerocity got us there quick (about 25 min during rush hour) and we easily found our way to the ticket window at Atocha for the high speed train (AVE) to Seville. The cost round trip to Seville via AVE turned out to be $256 US in 2nd class. The advice on here about booking AVE tix in advance is well heeded - they were pretty sold out coming back Sunday. So 1pm was latest we could get back (this was non-smoking). Book this in advance!!
OK once on the AVE I was amazed at how fast and smooth it was. It rocks on at about 160-170 mph and is whisper silent. I stayed awake until about 1 hr out of Madrid. The next time I awoke everyone was grabbing their stuff and we were in Seville, about 2.5 hrs later.
We grabbed our stuff, walked up the moving walkway to where the cabbies are. We grabbed a cab and headed to our hotel � Hotel Alcantara, down in barillo de Santa Cruz in the old jewish quarter. The hotel was in a PERFECT spot down in the twisty funky allyways near the cathedral. The rooms are nearly brand new and feature a small TV, 2 single beds, and it runs for about 68 EU/night including breakfast. I would HIGHLY recommend this place!
The first night we met up with my wife�s sister and headed out and we went to a little restaurant next to the Cathedral. We had a great outdoor table and the food wasn�t bad at all. Afterwards, we headed off to a bar somewhere in the cobblestone maze around the Cathedral. It was a small red door that you would not have known was anything. There was rumored to be Flamenco going on inside. My first taste of a bar in Seville was excellent. The local beer, Campo Cruz was great. The glass it came in was a little small but for .90 EU I wasn�t complaining. They also keep the lights turned way up, but whatever. We watched some guitar playing and some guys act out skits which my wife and I didn�t really understand since it was in Spanish, but at some point a guy with stick on angel wings and 3� afro wig started massaging my wife�s back. Not exactly sure what they were saying, but everyone seemed to be laughing. It was one of those situations when you think � how did I get in this situation? We wont soon forget it!
OK we didn�t do too bad on our 1st night in Seville, considering my wife is pregnant and we were on 6 hrs ahead, we turned in around 2am.
Day 2 � We walked the WHOLE city. It seemed like it anyway. We started out in the Centro shopping, then we saw a museum with lots of Spanish artwork, had lunch at the Irish Pub next to the Cathedral (which was just OK, but real pints of beer!). We then walked to the park and gov�t buildings, took a lot of pics, walked across the river to where my wife�s sis was staying. After a siesta (very appealing to a 7 month pregnant lady) I headed out to the Centro again to find an electrical adapter to charge my camera, as well as a pastry to hold us over to the 11pm dinner schedule the Spanish are on. This was my 1st experience going out in Spain without the safety net of my sister-in-law speaking for me. It was cool � I did my best and the people of Seville very much appreciated my broken Spanish. When I asked them if they spoke English, they all said a little (in Spanish). Most spoke English very well. But it was fun. Anyway, we got to go to the Alcazar with the students from UNC for a guided night tour and cocktails. Wow that was so cool. The Alcazar is a magical place, and at night when the shadows are cast in strange places it adds an eery effect. Although the tour was in Spanish, we made due and got to see many of the rooms carved from marble and stone centuries ago.
Day 3 � We got to go on a field trip with the UNC students to a small town outside Seville. We climbed up to the ruins of a castle and took many pics. Beautiful. Afterwards, we returned to the Cathedral for the tour. This is certainly the highlight of Seville. Words absolutely cannot describe the inside of the Cathedral, or view from the tower (Giralda). All I can tell you is do not miss the Cathedral, it is the single focal point of Seville. Afterwards we had dinner and went to a Flamenco show next to our hotel (Alcantara). Unbelievable. If you stay at Alcantara, hit the Flamenco show next door. These people are SERIOUS about the singing, dancing, and guitar playing. Again, I cant explain it, but I will never forget watching them. All I can say is the guitar player might have Eddie Van Halen beat on the acoustic.
The last day in Seville we saw the bull fighting stadium. A good tour, and reasonably priced. Its sad to think they kill (unfairly) 6 bulls every Sunday from April � September. Hopefully this tradition will be amended, but the stadium itself is brilliant. Everything is built with an old world sense, except for the emergency room, which is state of the art.
We got back on the AVE after saying goodbye and headed back to Seville. Another remarkable, on time trip on the AVE and we were at the Hotel Mora in Madrid (thanks Jer). Wow. This hotel is great, for 75 EU, we got a room on the 3rd floor corner with 2 balconies opening onto the street and 3 single beds. Its was a smoking room, as are all rooms at Mora, but with the windows opened, it didn�t matter (even to a pregnant wife). We did end up taking a cab from Atocha to Mora just because we had so much luggage. I think it was 6 EU, but worth it even though its so close.
We were able to venture out into Madrid to see the impressive Prado (free on Sundays!) . For dinner we went out to Plaza de Mayora, walking distance from Mora. Neat square with lots of action around it. We got to see about 1/10000 of Madrid that night, but we were very impressed nonetheless.
The morning of the last day we ate breakfast at the restaurant next to Mora (which is very good except for the ALL smoking idea) and got a cab back to the airport. The fare was $20 EU and it took 25 min or so. Back on the plane and back to Atlanta, we were saddened by the transition from 12th century architecture to 1980�s strip malls.
We could easily live in Seville, and just might 1 day. Thanks to all those who helped me plan this trip. I have a total appreciation for Spain, and would visit or even live there again. I highly recommend a trip to Seville. If there is some way to post pics on here, let me know. I have several that make good screen savers.
Paul and Harmony
Paul
. oh well, "para gustos, colores" ("to each his/her own").
- rent or buy a cell phone from me for your stay in spain, more info at 
- already have a cell phone, get a spanish SIM card for it at 
